BOAT

ACCESSORIZE YOUR BOAT ON A BUDGET

Having bought my first glitter boat in 1996, I’ve bought and sold five more. The fifth is about to be sold, and the sixth is on its way.

My best efforts have been paid off, but I’ve run into logs, forgot to put back the drain plug, and mostly just been on the water when it wasn’t necessarily a good idea. It is natural for boats to get wet, and good raingear is a godsend, but as I have grown older, I’ve learned sometimes discretion is more prudent.

Whenever I buy a new boat, I’m amazed at the accessories now available. When I first saw Power Poles, which can act as shallow water anchors, I couldn’t help but laugh. But now I wouldn’t be able to picture my life without them! My first vessel wasn’t outfitted with a hydraulic jackplate, and it’s clear to me that those would’ve saved me from many sticky spots if they had been installed. This next boat will have the latest advancements, such as lithium batteries and forward-facing sonar. It’s incredible to reflect on how much has changed since I took up fishing seriously years ago; this one is well beyond what would have been imaginable (or affordable!) back then.

It’s easy to argue about whether these add-ons are too expensive, whether they help you catch fish, or if they take away from the sport. While I won’t indulge you in that way, I will tell you one dirty truth about my cult. A lot of the best accessories are among the cheapest. And many of them aren’t even manufactured for boating. Here are a few I can’t live without:

There is a problem with the trolling motor running too deep

Diet Dr. Pepper bottle is the solution

Fishing in shallow waters and thick vegetation can put a strain on your trolling motor, causing noise and decreased fishing time. To avoid this issue, you can angle up the motor shaft so that just the propeller is submerged. Holding it with the pull rope allows for one-handed fishing, but isn’t ideal. You can also adjust the collar for constant depth, however you’ll need to readjust it when entering different depths – an inconvenient task.

In my boat years ago, there was a device called a “Power Gator” that could be used to hydraulically adjust the motor up and down with a switch. During cruising, I could deploy the motor while cruising to a stop, then hop onto the deck with it fully submerged. It worked great, but only lasted for a few weeks. After hitting a stump or otherwise straining the mount, the gears would strip out. I gave up after getting it fixed twice.

Pull your motor up to the height that you prefer, then cram a Diet Dr. Pepper bottle between the two scissoring parts of your motor mount. The Pepper will hold it in place, and it is cheap, easy, and silent. Why the Pepper? You can drink water, Gatorade, Cheerwine, or whatever you like. I just happen to be addicted to the Doc and usually have one on the way to the ramp.

Spun hub or thrown prop blade is the problem

Prop blocks are the solution

I’ve had my props blow up both after hitting submerged obstacles and for no apparent reason. It’s all fun and games until your outboard starts vibrating violently.

When it’s severely dinged or missing a blade you can’t continue to run it or you’ll mess up your prop shaft, or create other horrific damage. You need to get that sucker off. If you have a spare prop (even a cheap one), you simply take it off, put it back in place, and you’re off.

You should have got the prop nut on pretty tight when you installed it, and the (remaining) blades are probably pretty sharp. So how do you immobilize the prop enough to put leverage on it?

You can use a simple block of wood jammed between the prop and the cavitation plate, or you can get a bright yellow “Prop Block” that slides onto the plate and stops the spin.

Spun hub or thrown prop blade: Problem

A floating prop wrench is the solution

The problem is so monumental and potentially vexing that two accessories are required. Luckily, they’re both cheap. When putting on a prop, you’re gonna want to jam it on, but the best solution is to torque it correctly.

You can carry a torque wrench if you want, but that’ll take up space, and it’s likely to get messed up and bent while you bounce through 6-foot waves on tournament day. Whenever you are fine-tuning on land, keep a bright yellow plastic prop wrench in your boat.

You won’t lose much money if you drop it in the lake, because it floats. Keep an extra set of prop hardware in the boat as well, as one or more pieces are likely to get lost.

Tire on trailer is flat

Curb the problem

You’re heading to the lake when you suddenly discover that one of your trailer tires has a leak. Whether it’s a slow leak or an E-ticket blowout, it’s still annoying, especially when you’re in the dark or don’t want to get down on the ground to fix it.

I have a free solution if you have a dual-axle trailer. Once you have loosen the flat tire, drive the other tire up onto a curb or a parking lot stop block and allow the flattened one to hang. Once the bad tire is removed, you can replace it with your spare (you have a spare, and you have the tools to change it, right?). If curbs aren’t available, you can use a simple gadget like the Trailer Aid.

Runaway trailer is the problem

Block of wood or chock is the solution

When he unhooked his boat in his driveway, a friend stood with mouth agape as it rolled backward toward the lake. Fortunately, it stopped before it reached it.

Unfortunately, it stopped when it ran into a tree. It’s always better to be safe than sorry. You can buy a cheap chock for a few bucks, or use a block of wood or even a rock.

Boat and trailer stolen

The solution is to lock it

Anglers leave their trailered boats sitting in parking lots and driveways simply waiting for someone to back up to them and pull them away because boats are magnets for thieves.

Put a lock in the middle of the detachable tongue if you have one. If you don’t, put a lock through the coupler hole. Don’t make it easy for someone to steal your pride and joy.

Keep a portable tire inflator and standalone battery charger in your tow vehicle while you stock up on these inexpensive lifesavers. Any vehicle with a big battery should have jumper cables, or even better yet, a portable jump starter. There’s nothing particularly exciting about all of these, but if you can’t get to the fish, or to the lake, or back to the ramp, nothing else matters. Trust me. I’ve been there.

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